By Jan Walsh
Photography by Beau Gustafson
Revolve Kitchen and Brew is a social beer garden featuring American fare with a Southern drawl. The restaurant takes pride in being a made–from–scratch establishment. So there are no freezers or microwaves in this kitchen. Chef Sean Butler smokes all the briskets, turkeys, pork bellies, and more in-house. Sauces, dressings, pickles, kraut, condiments, and dips are also made from scratch. And it shows in every bite. Revolve’s fare is paired with local craft beers, premium liquors, and wines by the glass.
Revolve Kitchen and Brew is located at 611 Doug Baker Blvd., Suite 103, in Hoover, directly below The Melting Pot at the Village at Lee Branch. Outside Revolve’s covered patio boasts a water fountain view. Inside, a copper bar plays center stage. Behind the bar, taps line the subway tile wall, with a total of 75 brew options. The bar space is open to the main dining room, which has low– and high–top table seating options. The ambiance is industrial with high ceilings decorated with old sketches of bottling machines inner and outer workings against a bright red wall. And there are nine televisions strategically placed where you can enjoy the games yet not be overwhelmed by them.
Revolve Kitchen and Brew is owned by Doug Honavec, owner of another Hoover restaurant, Bellini’s Ristorante, located on Cahaba Valley Road, just off Highway 280 and Highway 119. The kitchen is Chef Sean Butler’s playground where his inventive mind plays with the evolution of his cuisine. Shayan Movahed serves as general manager.
I have previously dined at Revolve Kitchen and Brew for lunch, and I was delighted with the large bowl of hand–pulled roasted chicken salad. Tonight I bring the family to get a broad taste of the menu that is served in generous portions. We start with draft brews, bottled water, and several items from the “Plates to Share” menu: Revolve Wings, Oyster Wings, and Smoked Shrimp Cerviche. The plate of huge wings lathered in sauce arrives piping hot with the tips of the wings blackened. They are tender and juicy, and not overly spicy—recommended to all wing lovers. “Oyster Wings” are buffalo fried Gulf oysters, which arrive with a celery salad atop our choice of blue cheese dressing. Seven large and luscious oysters are topped with crumbles of blue cheese and microgreens. The ceviche is a beautiful and bright mound of chopped Gulf shrimp mixed with pico, grilled pineapple, and toasted coconut. It is flanked by two servings of guacamole and is topped with fresh lime, which we squeeze over the shrimp, and dig in. The guacamole adds a touch of creaminess to this crunchy, succulent, acidic dish, balancing it perfectly.
For entrees we select the Swim Up Stream, Chicken Dinner, and Pork Chop. Swim Up Stream is a pecan encrusted Georgia trout that is served with two sides, spring veggies and spoon bread. The large flaky filet of trout is drizzled with a bourbon tomato jam. Crisp bites of corn, zucchini, and onion make up the vegetables, and the spoon bread arrives hot and comforting in its own cast iron pot. A gorgeous, roasted half chicken, brined in olive oil, is served atop Anson Mills farro mixed with wild mushrooms and kale. The tender, juicy bird is complemented by the earthy flavors and textures of the farro and mushrooms, and the bites of kale add a touch of green and tartness. The enormous Beller grilled pork chop is branded with black, crosshatched grill marks on top and is plated on a smear of apple butter. I always admire a chef who can execute proper temperature in a thick pork chop. And Chef Butler achieves perfection in this tender, juicy chop. The center is cooked to the exact same degree of doneness as the top and bottom of the chop. It is served with two sides. An interesting mix of pickled limas and turnips adds color and acidity to the plate, and smoked sweet potato hash rounds out the dish with its sweet starchiness. Scrumptious from start to finish, we leave happy and fulfilled with no room for dessert.